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“Even though it’s soft, romantic, and cherubic, it’s still Sophia Loren—but this time she’s in a Greek theater and it’s sunny and hot,” Pat McGrath said of the muse, alluding to yet another reference for this season’s show, Federico Fellini’s 1969 film, Fellini Satyricon. To lend an instant glow to skin, McGrath applied Dolce & Gabbana Make Up Perfect Luminous Liquid Foundation in a shade slightly warmer than each model’s skin tone.
For a Fellini-esque flush, three shades of Luminous Cheek Colour (Rosebud, Apricot, and Peach) were swirled together and dusted on the cheeks, chin, hairline, and brows. To pick up on the plethora of precious metals in the collection—including a finale entirely composed of shorts, dresses, and separates made of metallic lace—a blend of yellow- and rose-gold hues from the Smooth Eye Colour Quad in Golds and Desert was applied to lids, with a slightly deeper beige blended into the crease and rimmed along the lower lash lines.
To highlight cheekbones, McGrath used the gilded side of the Smooth Eye Colour Duo in Fortune, then wet a small brush and dabbed the pigment on the inner corners of the eyes to catch the light. Since it wouldn’t be a Loren look without at least a hint of a cat-eye, a tiny wing was made on the outer corners with a chocolate-brown pencil and topped with Intense Liquid Eyeliner in Baroque Bronze, while a nude pencil was run along the lower water lines for pop.